Royal Palace Sprint (Skiing in Gamla Stan)

Photo by Henrik Trygg, Stockholm Visitors Board

One of world's most unique sporting events takes place in Stockholm tomorrow (Wednesday, March 20th)... the Royal Palace Sprint! This is a cross country sprint skiing competition. What makes it unique is that the course is in the middle of a major city, around the Royal Palace located in Gamla Stan. This isn't any amatuer event either... it is part of the World Cup series, so some of the best cross country skiers will be competing! This is the final sprint event of the season and the winner of the Sprint Cup will be announced and "crowned". Important points for the overall World Cup trophy (awarded this coming weekend in Falun, Sweden) are up for grabs as well. Apparently, there is only 15 points separating the top three in the current standings (Levkov, Northug and Cologna). So this is serious business!

Photo by Henrik Trygg, Stockholm Visitors Board

This will be the tenth time this event will be held here in Stockholm. The good news is that this is the first time I can remember that the weather has been "wintery" when the event has been held. Usually it is warm, spring weather and the fact that they truck in snow has been met with raised eyebrows by the locals. This year it is cold and snowy! The bad news is that this is apparently the last time for a few years that they will have the event in Stockholm... I read a quote from an official this morning where he said "hopefully by 2016". So, if you are in town, head down to Gamla Stan and see this unique event!

Photo by... me (from last year). Bad quality but, hey, they ski really fast! Hard to catch them!

The qualification rounds will be held between 2 and 2:45pm. The opening ceremonies with HRH Prince Carl Philip will be at 3pm followed by the semifinals and finals. The award ceremony, with His Majesty the King, will be held at 5:30pm. So plenty of chances all afternoon to see some quality skiing and spot some royals.

Ski Slope in Stockholm is Open!

SkiStar Hammarbybacken

A very cold and snowy December means that the Hammarby Backen ski slope is open for business much earlier than in previous years! It officially opened on December 13th. Does Hammarby offer as high quality skiing as the Alps or even the mountains of northern Sweden (Åre & Sällen)? No, it's a small slope, but that really isn't the point. The selling point for Hammarby is that it is right in the middle of the southern suburbs with views of Stockholm from the top. There aren't many "urban" ski slopes in the world, so it is quite a unique experience.

www.skistar.com/sv/hammarbybacken/

While it is a smaller, contained ski resort... it is still equipped for a complete ski experience: 2 lifts, 4 slopes, a children's area, a snowboard park, a ski school, ski equipment rental and (most importantly) After Ski at their restaurant and bar. Click here for a map. So far, they are open evenings during the weekdays and daytime on the weekends (closed on Christmas Eve). But it is early days for the season and the opening hours are sure to expand. It is very easy to get to the slope from the Rival Hotel... subway from Slussen to Gullmarsplan (green line southbound) and then transfer to Tvärbanan (street car) in the direction of Sickla. Exit at Sickla Kaj and from there it is just a 10 minute walk. See you on the slopes!

www.skistar.com/sv/hammarbybacken/

More ski slopes in the Stockholm area!

Snowy Stockholm

Off for the weekend! But I thought that I would leave you with some pictures I took this week of a snow covered Stockholm. The city is especially beautiful all covered in white. The weather is supposed to remain below zero for at least the upcoming week (with more snow expected), so the snow isn't going anywhere soon! If you get too cold walking around the city, do like a Swede and stop by a café, bar or Christmas market and try a glass of glögg. This is hot, spiced/mulled wine served with almonds and raisins and comes in both alcoholic and non-alcoholic varieties... or, if you are really cold, a strong variety spiked with cognac or other strong spirit.

Gamla Stan waterfront with official Christmas tree

On Skeppsholmen island...

Kastellholmen in Stockholm harbor

Gamla Stan seen from the water

Winter Warning!

In front of the Rival Hotel 

Well, our winter weather is continuing! We have had a major snow storm today with 3 decimeters of snow which has caused the city to come to a standstill. Many flights and trains have been cancelled or severely delayed due to the snow and strong winds. So, if you are traveling to Stockholm in the next couple of days, keep your eyes on the weather report and pack for cold weather. It is also a good idea to be careful while walking around Stockholm in the next few days due to snow falling from buildings! Just for fun you can check the webcam showing the Royal Palace in Gamla Stan to see what the weather is like...

Keeping the street in front of the hotel clear for our guests!

Christmas in Stockholm 2012

Some of my most popular blog entries have been those I've written about Christmas in Stockholm, so I guess it is time to write about what is happening this year in Stockholm! If you are staying at the Rival Hotel and need more detailed information, stop by and talk to me or drop me a line.

Main X-mas tree at Skeppsbron

The holiday season kicks off this Saturday, November 24th. This is the day the official Stockholm Christmas lights are lit and decorations revealed. 30 streets and squares in downtown Stockholm are decorated with thousands of LED lights. Last year was the first time the city made a real concerted effort to go "all out" for the holidays. There were some great decorations last year... should be fun to see what they come up with this year. Click here for map of the lights. While you are in the downtown area, stop by the NK Department Store to get a little more holiday cheer. Not only does this store have the best and most famous Christmas window decorations in Sweden, it is also the place to see Santa! He will be at NK every Friday-Sunday until December 13th when he also adds weekdays to his schedule (last day December 23rd).

Christmas market at Stortorget

This Saturday is also when the first Christmas markets open for business! In main square (Stortorget) in Gamla Stan you will find the Old Town Christmas Market, open daily from 11am to 6pm until December 23rd. In Skansen park and open-air museum, located on Djurgården, another Christmas Market opens. This one is very traditional and open between 10am and 4pm every Saturday & Sunday until the 16th of December. Skansen is also a great place to experience other Swedish Christmas traditions! Another large Christmas market opens on November 30th in Kungsträdgården park and will be open daily from 11am to 6pm until December 22nd. Kungsträdgården is right next to the above mentioned NK and is also where you will find the outdoor skating rink. Christmas markets in Stockholm are great places to pick up traditional Swedish holiday decorations, foods and handicrafts as well as to try glögg (Swedish hot spiced wine).

Ice skating at Kungsträdgården

Other Swedish Christmas traditions you should be aware of... many restaurants serve a traditional Christmas smörgåsbord called julbord, where a cornucopia of Swedish holiday goodies are laid out buffet style, and nothing else. This is a real treat and should be tried, but once is probably enough and you might want to find out which restaurants don't serve julbord to get a little variety. One great option is Strömma's Julbord boat cruises through the archipelago. A nice way to combine julbord and sightseeing! Then there is the whole Lucia celebration on December 13th (as well as Nobel Prize ceremonies). I will write more bout this later, but in the meantime you can read what I wrote last year to get an idea.

Julbord on Strömma boat cruise

Finally, two things just for fun, you have the popular gingerbread house competition at the Architecture Museum, right next to the Modern Art Museum located on Skeppsholmen (on display between Nov 28th and Jan 6th). And... got a craving for candy canes (polkagris in Swedish)? Stop by the Polkapojkarna in the Old Town, where they make the treats in front of your eyes, and get your fill! Merry Christmas!

Ice Skating Rink in Kungsträdgården

A sure sign that winter is just around the corner (besides the dropping temperatures) is the opening of the outdoor ice skating rink in Kungsträdgården for the season! For decades this has been a popular activity for young & less-young, natives & visitors alike. It is quite affordable... free if you have your own skates, otherwise renting skates costs 50 SEK for adults and 20 SEK for children up to 19 years of age (prices per hour). The skating rink is open 7 days a week (usually into late spring), from 11am to 7pm on the weekends and 10am to 8pm on the weekdays (open to 9pm on Tues & Thurs).

This is a great activity to take children to and, when the Christmas Market opens in Kungsträdgården on November 30th, the perfect place to get into the holiday spirit. Kungsträdgården is a park located in the downtown area, just a 25-30 minute walk from the Rival Hotel (through Gamla Stan), otherwise bus #43 or #55 will take you there in about 10 minutes. Happy skating!

Winter Weather Warning!

Just a few weeks ago there was a bit of whining about the unusually warm winter we were having (no white Christmas, etc;). Well, that seems like a distant memory now as a high pressure system over the Kola Peninsula has caused the temperatures in Sweden to plummet... and it will stay that way for the week ahead. Temperatures in Stockholm are predicted to be around -10 to -15 Celsius. In addition, a large snow storm is predicted to hit Stockholm and the south-east coast of Sweden today, dropping up to 30cm snow in certain areas.
Visiting Stockholm this coming week? Make sure you pack accordingly and bundle up! It's also a good idea to give yourself a little extra travelling time... snow and extreme temperatures tend to cause havoc with our subways, buses and commuter trains. If you want more detailed weather information, visit SMHI or YR.no.
Pictures in this blog entry were taken by me last winter after a similar snow storm...

Winter Activities 2012

I recently blogged about the Hammarby Ski Slopes opening for the season... snowy weather has continued here in Stockholm, so I thought I would write about some other possible winter activities.

A favorite activity every winter, for both visitors and Stockholmers, is ice skating at the outdoor rink in Kungsträdgården park (located in the downtown area). The rink is open daily until March 4th, closing at 6:30pm most days except for Tuesdays and Thursdays when they close at 8:30pm. Rental skates are available... 50 SEK for adults and 20 SEK for children. There are several cafés situated around the rink if you want a bite to eat or some hot chocolate. Kungsträdgården is just on the other side of the Old Town from the Rival Hotel (about a 20 minute walk).

Photo: Henrik Trygg, Stockholm Vistors Board

For those of you who are a little more adventurous... the Stockholm area, with hundreds of lakes, inlets and waterways, is considered one of the best places in the world for long distance tour skating. However you should not attempt this without a professional guide who knows the ice conditions and waterways. One great company is Ice Guide. They offer group tours, private guides as well as introduction classes. Included in the price are all skating & safety equipment, lunch and transportation.
If skiing is more your cup of tea... Visit Stockholm has a list of all the major slopes in the greater Stockholm area (including the aforementioned Hammarbybacken).

Hammarby Ski Slope Open!

It has been an unusually warm winter with very little snow... but the temperature has dropped low enough that the Hammarby Ski Slope has opened two of their runs with the use of snow cannons.

Photo: Ulf Hinds, Stockholm Visitors Board

Hammarbybacken, in local parlance, is quite a unique ski resort as it is located within a central metropolitan area (near the suburb Hammarby Sjöstad). From the top of the hill you have a view of all of Stockholm! It is quite easy to get to from the Rival Hotel with subway and streetcar (approximately a 25 minute trip)... the slope is only a 10 minute walk from the streetcar stop "Sickla Kaj". The resort has 4 slopes, 2 lifts and a kids area, fun park and restaurant. There is also a ski school and ski rental shop at the resort. They are open, as of now, 7 days a week... though I am a little loathe to say what their opening hours are due to the snow situation. If you are staying at the hotel and are interested, check with me and I can see what their updated opening hours are. Otherwise check with their website. You can also look at their webcam to see what the conditions are.

Weather Warning - The Big Thaw

This past month was the coldest December in over 100 years. After the freezing temperatures and lots of snow, winter has released her grip (a bit) on Stockholm. It has warmed up some! Over the next few days temperatures will waver between a few degrees over and under zero Celsius. What this means is that there will be some snow melt... snow & ice falling from roofs and messy sidewalks. The melted snow can refreeze during the nights and turn to ice, making streets and sidewalks slippery & treacherous. So be careful walking through the city! If you see sidewalks taped off with signs saying "Varning: Risk för ras" or "Varning: Ras" then you should avoid that area as it is a warning that snow & ice may fall from the roof unexpectedly.

What to do on New Years Weekend?

What to do this New years weekend? Plenty to do... be aware that some museums are open one day and closed the other. Almost all stores are closed on New years Day... and many restaurants.


Friday, December 31th

Museums- Skansen is open from 10am to midnight. A very popular place with Swedes to ring in the New Year... with the hour before midnight filled with music and entertainment. Besides Skansen, the other museums open today are the Vasa Museum and the East Asian Antiquities Museum (Terracotta Warrior exhibit).
The changing of the guards at the Royal Palace in the Old Town: 12:15pm
Tours- Strömma offers the Hop-on Hop-off bus tour, Panorama bus tour as well as the Winter boat tour and Little Archipelago boat tour everyday all weekend.
Other activities- The midnight firework display will take place over the water on the eastern side of Stockholm (ocean side). This can easily be viewed anywhere on the waterfront or a place with a good view.
Ice skating at Kungsträdgården from 11am to 8pm. Hammarbybacken is open for skiing 9am to 4pm. 
Restaurants- Many restaurants closed and the ones that are open serve the traditional nyårsspé dinner. Hope you have a reservation... it's very hard to get one last minute!
Stores- many open, with shorter hours. NK Department store open 10am to 5pm. Gallerian shopping center open 11am to 5pm. Skrapan shopping center open 10am to 4pm.

Saturday, January 1st

Museums- Skansen, Fotografiska, The History Museum and the East Asian Antiquities Museum (where you can see the Terracotta Warrior Exhibition) are all open.
The changing of the guards at the Royal Palace in the Old Town: 1:15pm
Tours- Strömma offers the Hop-on Hop-off bus tour, Panorama bus tour as well as the Winter boat tour and Little Archipelago boat tour  everyday all weekend.
Other activities- Ice skating at Kungsträdgården from 11am to 8pm. Hammarbybacken is open for skiing 11am to 6pm.
Restaurants- Many restaurants are closed (hungover staff?)... there are restaurants open in the Stureplan district as well as hotel restaurants. Rival Bistro is open.
Stores- Most are closed, including NK, Gallerian and Skrapan.

Sunday, January 2nd

Museums- all major museums, including the Vasa Museum, are open for business.
The changing of the guards at the Royal Palace in the Old Town: 1:15pm
Tours- Strömma offers the Hop-on Hop-off bus tour, Panorama bus tour as well as the Winter boat tour and Little Archipelago boat tour everyday all weekend.
Other activities- Ice skating at Kungsträdgården from 11am to 8pm. Hammarbybacken is open for skiing 9am to 6pm.
Restaurants- many more restaurants are open for business, but it is a Sunday... so restaurants that are generally closed on Sundays will be closed today!
Stores- Open for business again! NK Department store open 12pm to 5pm. Gallerian shopping center open 11am to 5pm. Skrapan shopping center open 11am to 6pm.

The weather this weekend? Temperatures around -5 Celsius and snowfall expected late on New Year's Eve and in the morning on New Year's Day.

Happy New Years!
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Winter Sport Activities in Stockholm

Are you feeling a bit sporty or adventurous? There is plenty to keep you occupied during the winter months and it all happens very close to the city, if not within.

    



Photo: Henrik Trygg- Stockholms Visitors Board

• Ice Skating: I've already reported on the outdoor ice skating rink in the middle of the city at Kungsträdgården. If you feel like doing some long distance skating on the frozen lakes and rivers around Stockholm, then it is better to do it in a group with a guide (it's still a little early in the season). Two good guide companies that offers such tours, including equipment rental, are the Stockholms Guidebyrå and Ice Guide. They can be contacted at info@stockholmsguidebyra.se and info@iceguide.se (they have a contact form on their website) for more information and booking. Click here for a list of cleared skating routes in the greater Stockholm area. 
• Cross Country Skiing: If you have your own equipment then there are many tracks around the city, including Djurgården. I'm having trouble finding a place that rents cross country skis, but if I find a place then I will report back!



Photo: Skistar.com/hammarbybacken

• Alpine Skiing & Snowboarding: There are several hills in and around Stockholm high enough to support some alpine skiing! I've already reported on the opening of Hammarbybacken this week. This is by far the closest slope, in fact you can see the slope from parts of Södermalm where the Rival Hotel is located and the there is a great view of the city from the top of the hill. There are lifts and a restaurant and they do rent skiing equipment! Click here for some short movies of the slope. There are a few other slopes on the outskirts of the city... including Ekholmsnäsbacken, Flottsbro and Väsjöbacken. 

 

I would be remiss in talking about winter sport activities without mentioning Hellasgården. This nature area is located in Nacka, just a 15 minute bus ride on #401 from Slussen (10 minute walk from the hotel). Here you can find plenty of walking paths, cross skiing tracks and outdoor ice skating (with rental). Another activity offered here, not for the faint of heart (literally), is ice swimming. A very nordic activity involving heating up in a sauna or bastu and then plunging into frigid waters. Brrrr...!



Warning- Winter Weather!

A little warning to travellers coming to Stockholm this week and next. They are predicting cold, bordering on record-breaking, temperatures for the next couple of days. Tomorrow and Thursday may see temperatures down towards -20 degrees Celsius in some parts of Stockholm. It should ease up by the weekend when a new system brings in warmer weather (-5 or so) and snow. The 10 day prognosis shows continuing temperatures below zero... and meterologists are saying that we may have another vargvinter ("Wolf's Winter"- local term for chillier than normal winter) on our hands like we did last year. The good news is that the snow makes it light, cheery & beautiful! On the other hand, meterology isn't an exact science: so it is a good idea to keep an eye on weather websites before your trip and pack accordingly!

Two good websites for Stockholm weather: www.smhi.se and www.yr.no
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Winter Sightseeing With Strömma

Strömma is Stockholm's premiere sightseeing company and last night a colleague and I attended their pre-winter party... a nice evening on their boats where they presented their winter offers and tours.
The Archipelago Tour w/ Guide continues through the winter taking visitors a bit out in the archipelago leaving each Saturday & Sunday at noon. During the winter Strömma adds a special Winter Tour several times a day from December 21st until April 7th (yes our winters can last that long!). The tour takes you through the Stockholm port and out to the islands of Fjäderholmarna... running about 1 hour and 15 minutes. There is food and drink available onboard and the cost is 190 SEK, half price for children between 6 and 11.

Photo by Magnus Rietz

A special Swedish Christmas tradition is the julbord, a holiday version of the classic smörgåsbord. Strömma gives you the opportunity to combine the julbord with a boat tour. Between November 25th and December 22nd, several boats a day will take guests through Stockholm and out among the islands all the while they enjoy a traditional Christmas feast. Four different boats leave at several times during the day... at noon, in the afternoon or in the evening. The cost runs from 425 SEK up to 675 SEK, depending on the time of day. There is also a special Christmas by Light tour that stays close to the city... you can enjoy an American/Swedish Christmas buffet while admiring the Christmas light displays along the waterfront. This is offered from November 30th through December 21st and the cost is 675 SEK per person.

Photo by Magnus Rietz

While many of the traditional sightseeing boat tours take a break during the winter season, remember that the Panorama bus tour runs year round!